“Now, isn’t this just what Beverly Hills, where people would sell their bodies for the “A” tables at Mr. Chow, was dying for? A humble Austrian restaurant with a six-foot-seven chef and nothing even close to a “B” table? If BierBeisl was only a place to get a platter of wursts and some rare Austrian brews, it would be welcome enough anywhere in L. A. But when you get such great bursts of flavor from a käsekrainer sausage pumped up with oozy Emmentaler cheese and sharp pepper, and when glazed white asparagus as sweet as candy are sprinkled with unexpected sautéed sweetbreads, you soon sense that chef-owner Bernhard Mairinger is doing something more special. Break off the arm of a fat soft pretzel and sop up the vinaigrette on the carpaccio of silky pork roast. At the end, rouse yourself to share that giddy Austrian dessert of golden hot pastry and warm plum compote called kaiserschmarrn. Yes, this is what they needed… “
» Go to List 2012 of Esquire Magazine
© John Mariani, Esquire Magazine
BierBeisl
